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Writer's pictureKurt

Hallelujah

“Do you want to go and see that bull elephant?”

“Sure”, we responded, “why not?”, thinking we would drive a bit closer.

But instead he shut off the engine and grabbed his rifle.

Professional African safari guides are some of the most amazing people, and are responsible for the introduction of many Westerners to the African wild. Of course, you connect with some more than others, but you’ll likely remember them for a lifetime.

In our quest to see painted wolves, our trusted safari agent sent us to Zimbabwe. At the time, we knew little about Zimbabwe, besides that it was politically a bit unstable. Ten years earlier, our trip had had a stop in Zambia – where they usually would have gone to Zimbabwe. Although a difficult past, ongoing high unemployment, and the ever-present lure of corruption – Zimbabwe, well the people of Zimbabwe, are wonderful.

We met Sibahale “Sibs” Sibanda on our 2017 trip to Zimbabwe, where we were fortunate to have reserved a “private vehicle” – just you and your guide (no other guests). Little did we know that we would have the amazing opportunity to spend several days with Imvelo’s lead Hwange guide – Sibs. We returned in 2018, and upon landing at the bush airstrip, we are immediately met by camp staff. Thrilled to be back in Zimbabwe, our host informs us that our guide has been held up and will be here shortly. Fingers crossed behind our backs. And then Sibs arrived!

Besides being an amazing guide (he speaks seven languages) and a wonderful person, we love Sibs’ use of the phrase “Hallelujah”.

“Sibs, we’re back! We were here last year!”

“Hallelujah!”

“Steph won this trip in a sweepstakes!”

“Hallelujah!”

And he may have exclaimed “Hallelujah!” when I spotted the brief flip of a sleeping lion’s tale 50 yards away in the tall grass. Word of advice: the guides are pros, but always also look for animals yourself – more eyes equals more sightings.

Spending seven days on safari with Sibs has resulted in cherished experiences that we will remember for our lifetimes.

  • Our first-ever sighting of African painted wolves was with Sibs.

  • On both Zimbabwe trips, we spent time in Imvelo Camelthorn’s elephant blind – a mostly buried cargo container that puts you at ankle-level to elephant – about four feet away. Steph cries joyful tears while I take photos and videos of the elephant drinking and eating a few feet away. Meanwhile, Sibs is back in the vehicle, nearby of course, but letting us experience this alone.

  • We don’t have children, and no offense, generally do not seek out the company of children. But one morning, Sibs informs us that today is “school day”. A bit reluctantly, we’re like “OK”. Prior to our game drive, we were to give a ride to school for some of the local village kids. Our spacious game drive vehicle has six guest seats (many often have 9 to 12 seats). Plus the passenger seat next to Sibs. So, five empty seats; we’re thinking 10 kids – if they double up. Nope. More. We don’t recall how many, but Steph had two on her lap, I had one on my lap, kids on kid’s laps, and three of the older kids clung on to the luggage rack at the back of the vehicle. As we bumbled along (at a safe speed), one of the girls of about 10-years old, started to lead the group singing. Well, we both had tears in our eyes. And to this day, when remembering this time, we still have tears in our eyes. We did not attempt to get photos, audio, or video – as this time was too special. Arriving at school, and after a very organized outdoor assembly of all students, we (and another vehicle of guests that had arrived) visited one of the classes. We were quickly individually swept away into small groups of students, where they were happy to practice their English and bombard us with questions. I – being auditorily challenged – had some difficulty understanding their inquisitive queries, but it was a wonderful experience none the less.

Thank you Sibs. Thank you Imvelo. Thank you Zimbabwe.


Sibs getting a better view-point. Hwange, Zimbabwe, 2018.



Ngama Primary School. Hwange, Zimbabwe, 2018. A warm welcome from the students.



Walking with elephants. Hwange, Zimbabwe, 2018.



Sundowners with Sibs. Hwange, Zimbabwe, 2017. Yes, we've posted this video before, but we love it and are posting it again. Most of the time, sundowners do not occur within a few yards of lions. Usually, you can get out and stretch your legs, chat, and have a drink. This time, we didn't want to leave the lions. The wild African animals at many of these reserves are habituated to safari vehicles - basically the animals mostly ignore the big smelly noisey things that do not harm them. But bipedal humans on foot are another thing - not even tenured guides will get out of the vehicle in the vicinity of lions. So in this case, Sibs graciously climbed over the seats from the front to the back of the vehicle, so he could reach the cooler and serve us drinks and munchies. Hallelujah!


Note: these two lions brothers are connected to a future post that we'll do about the highly controversial and emotional subject of trophy hunting.

2 Comments


Steph
Steph
Jun 02, 2020

Such wonderful memories! Sibs has to be one of the best guides out there. And the kids in the vehicle, there must have been at least 20, if not 30, in the vehicle with us -- definitely one of those incredible moments that I will never forget!

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gillianjerden
gillianjerden
Jun 01, 2020

Enjoyed this narrative and the smug look on Stephanie’s face as she was eating and drinking! Seeing those two lions at repose has made me quite sleepy so I am off to bed. Every time I read the blogs and see the photos/videos I want even more badly to be in Africa.

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